The Quest of an Environmentalist in Armenia

Serda Ozbenian
USA

Ever since I heard about the opportunity to travel to Armenia and serve as an Armenian Volunteer Corps (AVC)/Birthright Armenia volunteer, I knew it was something I wanted to do…at some point. I put it on the back burner for years. A few months ago I, rather impulsively, decided it was the right time. I took a 2-month leave of absence from my job at an animal protection organization in Washington, D.C. and started preparing for my trip. No time like the present!

To be honest, before I heard about the opportunity to serve in Armenia as a volunteer, I hadn’t really had a desire to travel to Armenia. “My family is from Turkey so why would I want to go to Armenia?” Though I’m a full-blooded Armenian, I felt detached from Armenia. I couldn’t relate to those that referred to it as the “homeland”.

A few years ago I heard about Armenia’s many environmental problems from my friend and president of the Armenian Environmental Network (AEN), Ursula Kazarian. She had just launched AEN, an organization dedicated to raising public awareness among the Armenian Diaspora about environmental and energy concerns for Armenia’s development and how they relate to public health, democracy building, economic growth and security. I was shocked to hear of the multitude of environmental problems in Armenia and as a die-hard environmentalist, I was instantly interested in helping, and am now the executive director of AEN. After hearing about and researching Armenia’s environmental problems, I wanted to go to Armenia and see them for myself. I also wanted to see firsthand Armenia’s beautiful natural areas in need of protection.

Additionally I wanted to learn more about the culture and how it was similar or different to the Armenian culture I grew up with. I wanted to learn about the lives of everyday citizens in Armenia, their challenges, experiences, and dreams. And of course, I wanted to help and volunteer my time and knowledge.

Because of my experience and my interest in Armenia’s environment, AVC placed me with the Foundation for the Preservation of Wildlife and Cultural Assets (FPWC). As the name suggests, FPWC is a non-governmental organization aiming to raise local and international awareness for the preservation of Armenia’s unique natural heritage. Specifically, FPWC provides environmental and media education to youth, holds public events, produces nature documentaries, and implements various other projects.

I offered my assistance on a number of different initiatives but most notably, reaching out to US universities to locate potential partners interested in helping FPWC develop curriculum for an environmental college in Armenia. FPWC hopes to launch the college in 2012 and it will be the first such college dedicated to the environment in the entire Caucuses region. Additionally, I developed the framework for a conference on nature conservation in the Caucuses to be held in 2011.

FPWC has established a network of Eco-clubs throughout Armenia to foster a new generation of Armenians that are strong advocates for their country’s unique biodiversity. My second month with FPWC, I traveled to different regions in Armenia to work with their Eco-clubs on their SOS projects. SOS is an initiative to document the degradation of naturally and culturally significant sites in Armenia. I visited three towns, Urtsadzor, Sisian and Dilijan. What I encountered in these towns was both beautiful and devastating.

Before I begin to describe the environmental problems I witnessed in these towns, I want to mention that I stayed with different families in each village and each one was more welcoming than the other. I was so touched by each of these families and feel lucky that I had the opportunity to spend time with them and experience their way of life for a few days.

Armash and Urtsadzor

Before heading to Urtsadzor, I accompanied FPWC director, Ruben, to Armash in the Ararat Province. On the way to Armash, he pointed out a concrete mine and explained that the mercury dust produced by the mine contaminates plants and vegetables in the area, a fact which the local community is unaware of. He also pointed out a gold processing facility that uses cyanide in the extraction process. The radioactive chemical soup is then transported via pipes to an open outdoor tailings dam. The dam is built so close to neighboring villages that livestock often graze along the dam, consuming toxic chemicals that are then transferred to people through meat and dairy products. Millions of birds and other animals have even died as a result of drinking the toxic sludge. On several occasions, the pipes transporting the waste were damaged, flooding the villages with the toxic soup.

When we arrived at Armash, Ruben told me that Armash contains a series of artificial lakes used for eco-friendly fish farming. The lakes also serve as vitally important habitat for an astounding array of birdlife, including threatened species. Though I am a vegan, it was impressive to see a productive fish farming operation flourishing without the use of antibiotics, chemicals or any other environmentally destructive methods. Sadly, in the past, some of the operators of the fish farms set fire to the nests of the birds fearing competition for fish.

After leaving Armash, I continued with FPWC’s Urtsadzor Eco-club coordinator, Manuk, to Urtsadzor, a small town in the Ararat Province. Along with a few members from the regions eco-club, we visited a series of ruins of monasteries, prehistoric cave dwellings, and ancient graveyards, even one Arabic graveyard, all ignored and neglected. It was obvious that no one was taking care of these historic sites and locals were using them as grazing land for their livestock. It saddened me to see such history being lost. Manuk even told me that he found human remains at one church that was undergoing renovation and handed it over to those in charge and the skeleton was simply thrown aside. I was angered that some in Armenia, including (and especially) the government, do not recognize and value how vital these historical and archeological treasures are to Armenia’s personal identity. Manuk also took me to an area that is home for many species of rare reptiles. The area was directly next to a large quarry where mountains, and habitat for these wildlife, were being destroyed to make tiles for homes and buildings.

Sisian

The next town I went to was Sisian, in the Syunik Province. In Sisian, we also documented the ruins of ancient, crumbling churches and gravesites. One of the gravesites we visited was cradled within the majestic mountains and…surrounded by a massive landfill! The size of the landfill was absolutely appalling. There were millions of pieces of electronic equipment, toys, dishes, tires, you name it. Plastic bags caught on trees were swaying in the wind, occasionally taking flight and soaring over the trash pile to pollute another area. I was already aware that Armenia lacked a proper waste processing plant (this is evident by the trash littering the streets just about everywhere in Armenia) but I couldn’t believe my eyes, or my nose, at just how bad it was. I kept wondering what kinds of toxic chemicals were seeping into the ground and how many such landfills there were in Armenia.

Dilijan

The next Eco-club I worked with was in Dilijan, in the Tavush Province. Dilijan is a popular resort town in Armenia, located in the beautiful and densely forested Dilijan National Park. Here, I set off with a group of Eco-club members to document a few old dilapidated buildings, including an old KGB hotel. I was also lucky enough to participate in a tree planting with local schoolchildren, organized by the Every Drop Matters Project which seeks to address the problem of water pollution in the Aghstev River in Dilijan through engaging local community. Dilijan has no sewage treatment plant so most of the town’s sewage flows directly into the river and its tributaries.

Though the act of documenting degraded and ignored sites was not exactly uplifting, I was very encouraged by and impressed with how knowledgeable and engaged the Eco-club members were. It gives me hope for the future and I’m thankful that FPWC has taken on the important task of educating and empowering these teens to speak up for their voiceless and priceless environmental and cultural assets.

Khosrov Nature Reserve

My first introduction to the majestic beauty of Armenia’s natural areas was on a trip with FPWC staff to a “buffer area” near the Khosrov Reserve. FPWC leased a significant portion (450 hectares) of formerly unprotected land in the vicinity of the reserve. The area is adorned with ancient and breathtaking juniper trees and is vital habitat for the endangered and endemic wildlife in the area. FPWC purchased the land and erected informational sign posts to inform the public that the area is protected. This area was popular for hunting but now under FPWC’s management and oversight, no hunting or other exploitation is allowed. This privately managed and monitored reserve is the first of its kind in the region. Sadly, laws are not properly enforced within the reserve (and other reserves throughout Armenia) so FPWC hopes the buffer area will serve as an example.

With the aid of binoculars and Manuk, I was fortunate enough to observe a group of endangered Armenian mouflon. Mouflon are threatened by hunting (even though it’s illegal) and habitat loss. I was overcome with emotion to not only see these beautiful animals, know the threats they face and know that thanks to FPWC, their habitat in the buffer area will be protected.

Other….

Aside from working with FPWC, I also had the opportunity to volunteer for other causes as well. Along with other AVC volunteers and many community members, we helped the Fuller Center for Housing pour the concrete for a family’s home in the Armavir village. It was an amazing experience to work with the community and other volunteers to provide this gift for a family in need.

Additionally, I worked with local activists to oppose the construction of a dolphinarium in Komitas Park in Yerevan. While in Armenia, using my connections in the U.S., I prepared a letter to government officials in Armenia that was signed by 50 organizations from around the world. We also held a pres conference with other activists to announce the letter. We were successful in engaging the media and are hopeful that the plans for the dolphinarium will be scrapped.

I also worked with local activists from the Save Teghut Forest Group to raise awareness of a copper mining project that involves the destruction of 882 acres of pristine forest. Teghut Forest is home to many endangered species of plants and animals and the copper mine would not only destroy vital habitat but toxic waste from the mine would pollute the land and water in the area and have disastrous effects on the health of local villages.

The opportunity to live and work in Armenia gave me the chance to see Armenia’s challenges firsthand and make connections and form relationships that I will maintain for years to come. I was also able to see firsthand the awe-inspiring natural and historical treasures in Armenia. I was so impressed with and inspired by the environmentalists I met fighting for environmental protection and sustainable development in the country under a government that does not value the wishes of its citizens and is more interested in selling off natural treasures than protecting them. I feel as though I gained a gift by visiting, living and working in Armenia. I gained an understanding of the true meaning of a “homeland” and I recognize that Armenia is truly another home for me. Through this experience I also gained the responsibility of caring for my homeland, a responsibility I am proud to have and I will do my best fulfill.

The Quest of an Environmentalist in Armenia

Serda Ozbenian
USA

Ever since I heard about the opportunity to travel to Armenia and serve as an Armenian Volunteer Corps (AVC)/Birthright Armenia volunteer, I knew it was something I wanted to do…at some point. I put it on the back burner for years. A few months ago I, rather impulsively, decided it was the right time. I took a 2-month leave of absence from my job at an animal protection organization in Washington, D.C. and started preparing for my trip. No time like the present!

To be honest, before I heard about the opportunity to serve in Armenia as a volunteer, I hadn’t really had a desire to travel to Armenia. “My family is from Turkey so why would I want to go to Armenia?” Though I’m a full-blooded Armenian, I felt detached from Armenia. I couldn’t relate to those that referred to it as the “homeland”.

A few years ago I heard from a friend about Armenia’s many environmental problems and her interest in creating an organization to educate the Armenian Diaspora about these urgent threats. I was shocked at the multitude of environmental problems in Armenia and as a die-hard environmentalist, I was instantly interested in helping. I am now the executive director of this organization, the Armenian Environmental Network (AEN). AEN is dedicated to raising public awareness among the Diaspora about environmental and energy concerns for Armenia’s development and how they relate to public health, democracy building, economic growth and security. After hearing about and researching Armenia’s environmental problems, I wanted to go to Armenia and see them for myself. I also wanted to see firsthand Armenia’s beautiful natural areas in need of protection.

Additionally I wanted to learn more about the culture and how it was similar or different to the Armenian culture I grew up with. I wanted to learn about the lives of everyday citizens in Armenia, their challenges, experiences, and dreams. And of course, I wanted to help and volunteer my time and knowledge.

Because of my experience and my interest in Armenia’s environment, AVC placed me with the Foundation for the Preservation of Wildlife and Cultural Assets (FPWC). As the name suggests, FPWC is a non-governmental organization aiming to raise local and international awareness for the preservation of Armenia’s unique natural heritage. Specifically, FPWC provides environmental and media education to youth, holds public events, produces nature documentaries, and implements various other projects.

I offered my assistance on a number of different initiatives but most notably, reaching out to US universities to locate potential partners interested in helping FPWC develop curriculum for an environmental college in Armenia. FPWC hopes to launch the college in 2012 and it will be the first such college dedicated to the environment in the entire Caucuses region. Additionally, I developed the framework for a conference on nature conservation in the Caucuses to be held in 2011.

FPWC has established a network of Eco-clubs throughout Armenia to foster a new generation of Armenians that are strong advocates for their country’s unique biodiversity. My second month with FPWC, I traveled to different regions in Armenia to work with their Eco-clubs on their SOS projects. SOS is an initiative to document the degradation of naturally and culturally significant sites in Armenia. I visited three towns, Urtsadzor, Sisian and Dilijan. What I encountered in these towns was both beautiful and devastating.

Before I begin to describe the environmental problems I witnessed in these towns, I want to mention that I stayed with different families in each village and each one was more welcoming than the other. I was so touched by each of these families and feel lucky that I had the opportunity to spend time with them and experience their way of life for a few days.

Armash and Urtsadzor

Before heading to Urtsadzor, I accompanied FPWC director, Ruben, to Armash in the Ararat Province. On the way to Armash, he pointed out a concrete mine and explained that the mercury dust produced by the mine contaminates plants and vegetables in the area, a fact which the local community is unaware of. He also pointed out a gold processing facility that uses cyanide in the extraction process. The radioactive chemical soup is then transported via pipes to an open outdoor tailings dam. The dam is built so close to neighboring villages that livestock often graze along the dam, consuming toxic chemicals that are then transferred to people through meat and dairy products. Millions of birds and other animals have even died as a result of drinking the toxic sludge. On several occasions, the pipes transporting the waste were damaged, flooding the villages with the toxic soup.

When we arrived at Armash, Ruben told me that Armash contains a series of artificial lakes used for eco-friendly fish farming. The lakes also serve as vitally important habitat for an astounding array of birdlife, including threatened species. Though I am a vegan, it was impressive to see a productive fish farming operation flourishing without the use of antibiotics, chemicals or any other environmentally destructive methods. Sadly, in the past, some of the operators of the fish farms set fire to the nests of the birds fearing competition for fish.

After leaving Armash, I continued with FPWC’s Urtsadzor Eco-club coordinator, Manuk, to Urtsadzor, a small town in the Ararat Province. Along with a few members from the regions eco-club, we visited a series of ruins of monasteries, prehistoric cave dwellings, and ancient graveyards, even one Arabic graveyard, all ignored and neglected. It was obvious that no one was taking care of these historic sites and locals were using them as grazing land for their livestock. It saddened me to see such history being lost. Manuk even told me that he found human remains at one church that was undergoing renovation and handed it over to those in charge and the skeleton was simply thrown aside. I was angered that some in Armenia, including (and especially) the government, do not recognize and value how vital these historical and archeological treasures are to Armenia’s personal identity. Manuk also took me to an area that is home for many species of rare reptiles. The area was directly next to a large quarry where mountains, and habitat for these wildlife, were being destroyed to make tiles for homes and buildings.

Sisian

The next town I went to was Sisian, in the Syunik Province. In Sisian, we also documented the ruins of ancient, crumbling churches and gravesites. One of the gravesites we visited was cradled within the majestic mountains and…surrounded by a massive landfill! The size of the landfill was absolutely appalling. There were millions of pieces of electronic equipment, toys, dishes, tires, you name it. Plastic bags caught on trees were swaying in the wind, occasionally taking flight and soaring over the trash pile to pollute another area. I was already aware that Armenia lacked a proper waste processing plant (this is evident by the trash littering the streets just about everywhere in Armenia) but I couldn’t believe my eyes, or my nose, at just how bad it was. I kept wondering what kinds of toxic chemicals were seeping into the ground and how many such landfills there were in Armenia.

Dilijan

The next Eco-club I worked with was in Dilijan, in the Tavush Province. Dilijan is a popular resort town in Armenia, located in the beautiful and densely forested Dilijan National Park. Here, I set off with a group of Eco-club members to document a few old dilapidated buildings, including an old KGB hotel. I was also lucky enough to participate in a tree planting with local schoolchildren, organized by the Every Drop Matters Project which seeks to address the problem of water pollution in the Aghstev River in Dilijan through engaging local community. Dilijan has no sewage treatment plant so most of the town’s sewage flows directly into the river and its tributaries.

Though the act of documenting degraded and ignored sites was not exactly uplifting, I was very encouraged by and impressed with how knowledgeable and engaged the Eco-club members were. It gives me hope for the future and I’m thankful that FPWC has taken on the important task of educating and empowering these teens to speak up for their voiceless and priceless environmental and cultural assets.

Khosrov Nature Reserve

My first introduction to the majestic beauty of Armenia’s natural areas was on a trip with FPWC staff to a “buffer area” near the Khosrov Reserve. FPWC leased a significant portion (450 hectares) of formerly unprotected land in the vicinity of the reserve. The area is adorned with ancient and breathtaking juniper trees and is vital habitat for the endangered and endemic wildlife in the area. FPWC purchased the land and erected informational sign posts to inform the public that the area is protected. This area was popular for hunting but now under FPWC’s management and oversight, no hunting or other exploitation is allowed. This privately managed and monitored reserve is the first of its kind in the region. Sadly, laws are not properly enforced within the reserve (and other reserves throughout Armenia) so FPWC hopes the buffer area will serve as an example.

With the aid of binoculars and Manuk, I was fortunate enough to observe a group of endangered Armenian mouflon. Mouflon are threatened by hunting (even though it’s illegal) and habitat loss. I was overcome with emotion to not only see these beautiful animals, know the threats they face and know that thanks to FPWC, their habitat in the buffer area will be protected.

Other….

Aside from working with FPWC, I also had the opportunity to volunteer for other causes as well. Along with other AVC volunteers and many community members, we helped the Fuller Center for Housing pour the concrete for a family’s home in the Armavir village. It was an amazing experience to work with the community and other volunteers to provide this gift for a family in need.

Additionally, I worked with local activists to oppose the construction of a dolphinarium in Komitas Park in Yerevan. While in Armenia, using my connections in the U.S., I prepared a letter to government officials in Armenia that was signed by 50 organizations from around the world. We also held a pres conference with other activists to announce the letter. We were successful in engaging the media and are hopeful that the plans for the dolphinarium will be scrapped.

I also worked with local activists from the Save Teghut Forest Group to raise awareness of a copper mining project that involves the destruction of 882 acres of pristine forest. Teghut Forest is home to many endangered species of plants and animals and the copper mine would not only destroy vital habitat but toxic waste from the mine would pollute the land and water in the area and have disastrous effects on the health of local villages.

The opportunity to live and work in Armenia gave me the chance to see Armenia’s challenges firsthand and make connections and form relationships that I will maintain for years to come. I was also able to see firsthand the awe-inspiring natural and historical treasures in Armenia. I was so impressed with and inspired by the environmentalists I met fighting for environmental protection and sustainable development in the country under a government that does not value the wishes of its citizens and is more interested in selling off natural treasures than protecting them. I feel as though I gained a gift by visiting, living and working in Armenia. I gained an understanding of the true meaning of a “homeland” and I recognize that Armenia is truly another home for me. Through this experience I also gained the responsibility of caring for my homeland, a responsibility I am proud to have and I will do my best fulfill.

Gyumri, Armenia: Word on the Streets

Vana Nazarian
Canada

There is a Chinese proverb that says “better a diamond with a flaw, than a pebble without.” This is a little account about my two month experience with the Armenian Volunteer Corps. Two days upon my arrival to Armenia, I finally came to Gyumri. What I knew about the place was the fact that it was the second largest city of Armenia and that it had lost it all in a devastating earthquake some 22 years ago. What I imagined was a smaller version of Yerevan and perhaps a few little reminders of the destruction. Anxious for my summer travel, I had taken the time to Google images, sites, and frankly anything that could have given me an idea of what to expect. Yet reality, as I came to discover, was something a lot different from what I had imagined.

Every inch and every little corner of the city was a fresh reminder of both its glorious and dark past. Parts of it were filled with the abandoned factories of the Soviet Union, others were mainly inhabited by the very ruins of the earthquake. And, a tiny magical part was where I had the chance to work; it was the historic district of Kumayri.

I was placed in an NGO called Historical Armenian Houses that had as a primary mission to identify, research and preserve the historic houses of Gyumri. I had several tasks on the job, among which block surveys. In this particular assignment, I had to walk around designated blocks of the Historic Kumayri district to collect addresses and information about each building. What started off as being my most dreaded task, block surveys became one of the most meaningful experiences.

Initially, the very idea of this task entailed that I had to walk the Gyumri streets on the hottest time of day, considering I had to get it done during working hours. To those who think Gyumri is mountainous and cool, let me assure you; daytime Gyumri, in the summertime, can get pretty hot. As to the task itself, what sounded like a piece of cake became a whole new story. Most common of scenarios would occur in the act of collecting the addresses. Suddenly, surveying the block would lead residents to become suspicious and distrustful. First, I thought that it was the outsider versus local issue. Some locals would be helpful but a large number of them would not. Too often, I found myself thinking of how a simple and innocent act as surveying architectural features of a block could possibly become a most threatening event for others. At times, simply standing in front of a building would make me a curious subject and all of a sudden, an entire neighborhood would come to bombard me with questions about my work, my intentions, life and marital status. Other times, the crowd of interested people would get so curious that minutes after they had approached me, they would start discussing and debating aspects of my life amongst each other. I dreaded the task because it required long hours and endless walks, which commonly resulted in frequent loss of my sense of direction and absolute exhaustion at the end of the day.

Of course technical difficulties did not make the task easy. What I chose to refer as technical difficulties consisted none other than the bad street conditions and stray dogs. The first concern was actually very simple; if I wasn’t cautious and attentive to every little inch I stepped on, my feet could end up in a hole, a pile of excrement, mud or better yet, I could fall head first to the rocky ground. The second problem was actually the only thing that preoccupied my mind before my arrival to Gyumri and to each time I had to be on the streets. Dogs in Gyumri had become a natural guarding device to the streets. They were everywhere and would casually go around in packs. Most often they became very territorial and would go against other packs to defend their land. They would easily sense fear and before you even knew it, you would get followed. Did I mention how I was utterly terrified of dogs? And so, to make matters worse, the very first week I was there, one of our fellow volunteers got bit by a dog. Can you imagine my terrorized state while walking the streets? But after a while I got used to them and they got used to me; although, the former statement is probably the rather likely situation. By the second week, I had learned to control my fear. And at the end, this much dreaded task became one of the most life changing ones as I came to face my fears.

Before I even knew it, Gyumri became my diamond. It was beautiful like a diamond but not flawless. Every single day that I lived in that city, I came to discover the talent, the culture, and the life of this odd and magical place. It was a bittersweet reality. It had so much to offer but no means to give it. And ironically, I fell in love with a place that was so different from my reality; not to mention a city that didn’t quite resemble one, from a Western perspective. On the other hand, it offered what no other place could; an approach to life that exceeded all understanding and rationality. Those people had every reason to be sad but instead they lived with the dream of the good old days, hoping for the good ones to come. That was the best life lesson I could retain after my two month experience. Gyumri people had experienced death but had not forgotten to live. As soon as music broke, one would witness a scene of people hand in hand, dancing like there was no tomorrow, with movements that were more passionate and perfect than the greatest performances anyone had seen.

As an Armenian of the Diaspora, it often was difficult to associate to the motherland. We often focus on the differences and fail to see the common points and the truth is, we might have too much in common. What had first stricken me as different, strange, and bizarre, suddenly became familiar. I realized that once I understood their ways, lifestyles, and norms, it became easier to connect.

Armenia, for me, is the center, the heart; and I, one of its veins. At times, it is necessary to visit the core that pumps your blood. But most times, it is crucial to cease from being the vein, and start becoming the blood gushing through.

This post first appeared on Vana's own blog, http://vana-nazarian.blogspot.com/.

Not the end but the beginning: Meghrig's Journey

Meghrig Jabaghchourian
Syria

I still remember the 13th of September, I was in the Aleppo international airport, saying goodbye to my parents, when I left them I couldn’t look back, as I didn’t want to see my mom in tears. (Working and living in Armenia) I was thinking about it and how difficult it could be being away from my family for 9 weeks.

When I arrived to Zvartnots international airport, Vahram (the driver of Birthright Armenia) was there holding a photo of mine… then after a few minutes another volunteer (Haig from Canada) arrived, Vahram was frustrated with heavy weights of our luggage he was saying. (Tuk qar ek perel tser hed????)

I went to the home where I was going to spend my next 2 months, I met my host family, they seemed nice people, The first night was strange, I was thinking about so many things my life here my work...Everything… The next morning I went to the office of BRA and AVC, I was welcomed with a BIG smile and Hugs, Sevan, Sharistan, Vahan and Gohar. They treated me very nice and they made me feel at home.

My Work in Armenia

[Yerevan State University] where I was going to volunteer in Armenia, at the center of culture and civilization studies and at the same time teaching (Islamic history and Arabic)at the Orient studies department. When I went to the center for the first time, my boss even didn’t look to my face he just asked: vorkan es mnalou Hayasdan?

I said: minchev noyemper 15.

He said: ok, so you can prepare a research…

(oh my God….)he even didn’t look at me…when I came back home, I was totally hopeless, but then I decided to proof to him that I can accomplish this research in two weeks not two months, He was really surprised when I told him 2 weeks later that I finished my research, after that we started making good friends, I think that my boss is very wise man and helpful, that he even tried to help me in my masters studies, I respect him very much.

My colleges at work were very kind with me, we were close friends to each other during the lunch time we used to talk about different subjects.. The most exciting thing that you eat a lot during the work time

My second work (teaching) was very exciting, I was in touch with many Armenian students and know their mentality there wasn’t difference of age between us, so we were friends. This was a good experience as well.

The things that I will always remember about Armenia

1-the taxis: when you take a taxi, you always have a nice conversation with the taxi drivers, or when you take aMarshoutka you have also nice conversation with the people in and the driver even if you don’t know the way they can always help you. I still remember how they were surprised when I was telling them that I am a volunteer (working without taking money) they were wondering (baaaa vontses abroum???)

2-the football matches: the best place where you feel you are Armenian, you feel that grate energy, when you shout HAYASDAN you don’t courage any other country or other nation, you courage yourself your nation Armenia.

3-Yeraplour: the place that I couldn’t stop my tears, a place where you ask yourself
a simple question: (what am I doing for my homeland while they gave their most precious…) I bow down for all these martyrs who died to keep Artsakh and Hayasdan safe.

4-Artsakh: the heart of every Armenian, our proud, the victory of us, You walk very proud in Artsakh because you feel the victory on your skin, and you also touch the pain of all the Martyrs.

I still remember that old lady at the museum who lost her son, at the beginning I tried to stay strong, but when she said (I lost my son) my heart was going to explore …. If you simply compare, you see that we are doing NOTHING beside what they did..
I also remember the dinner at Saro’s house in Shoushi and how we danced and sang… and talked with Saro he’s a patriot.

Kantsasar monastery one af the most beautiful places special at night, you feel it, this is yours you belong to this place, I just can’t forget Sevan’s words that night while he was talking to us.

5-My last excursion (to Haghpad and Sanahin):
when I arrived to the office that morning, Asqanaz (from the stuff of BRA) told me that this excursion was for me, he was right… I was living my last days in Armenia. The way to Sanahin was magic while I was listening (Parov mnak) a song of Arture meschian, I was trying to live each minute, each second without missing anything. I will never forget the lunch that day(was really delicious especially the honey…)

My host family:
At the beginning it was hard sometimes to understand each other, but after sometime we were very close to each other, my host mum had to work a lot to save money to pay for her daughter’s university, at the afternoon we used to drink coffee all together (me my host mum and Armine) we used to talk about our life, the problems that we face and our joy….everything.

I didn’t have a sister but now I have Armine my host sister, every night she used to come to my room so we can talk for a long time about our dreams….

Now I came back home after leaving a huge part of me in Hayasdan, now I know where I belong, I know what it means to have a homeland, I understand what it means to be Hay (Armennian) even that I’m far away…

BUT this is not the end, It’s just THE BEGINNING.

Creative Technology in Armenia

Jirair Garabedian
Canada

If you've ever taken any of the marshutkas across the Kievyan bridge and wondered what that giant pink curved building across the gorge is, that's Tumo.

I pretty much accidentally stumbled upon the world's biggest creative technology center. About sometime in mid-July, I believe, I had started volunteering through BR/AVC. Anyways, I'd been ridiculously busy at KassArt Studios, helping pull together the second annual ReAmimania Animation Film Festival. Busy as I was, I figured 'hey, it won't kill me to go to one forum/havak'. So I get over to the Birthright Armenia office, it was the first time I'd been there in weeks and the first time I was actually meeting any of the other volunteers. So I get down there, meet a few folks, shake a couple hands. Then we all cram into one or two taxis and start heading somewhere (I didn't know where, yet).

As our taxi pulls up to the dusty gates, I looked around, trying to find where it is we'd be going.

We get out of the car and walk through some ripped up terrain, I turn the corner of the trailer and see this massive behemoth of a building.

Anyways, we got a tour of the place and I was pretty much dragging my jaw along behind me. I was amazed that something of this quality, of this sort of vision existed in Armenia of all places. For those of you who don't know, the Tumo Center for Creative Technology is a place for kids from 12-18 to come learn technology, design, animation, programming, game design and the like.

They're given all the tools, the learning space and all the opportunites to become professionals in a growing entertainment/media arts industry. Anyways, it's a great place to work, I love every second of it. Challenging but also very rewarding. I realize the description and overall quality in this blog post kinda went downhill after the main paragraph...I'm at work..

Alright back to work.

Later!

(The picture is of Jirair planting a tree at Toumanyan Park, within which TUMO is located, earlier this fall.)

Returning to Armenia and Finding Organic Farming

Diana Muratova
USA

Born and raised in Yerevan for the first half of my life, I have always associated my homeland with its beautiful capital - busy streets, stone buildings, and marshrutkas. So when I was assigned to volunteer at an agricultural NGO specializing in organic farming, the images in my mind were instantly shattered and replaced with a big question mark. Curious about my role within the organization, I accepted the assignment and arrived at Green Lane Agricultural NGO my third day back in Yerevan.

The following month at Green Lane was spent soaking in an incredible amount of information about farming and the state of Armenian farmers, meeting professionals from Armenia and abroad, and enjoying one of the friendliest environments I have ever worked in.

Let me begin by clarifying what Green Lane Agricultural NGO is all about. It is an organization led by a group of extremely knowledgeable agricultural professionals whose aim is to encourage and facilitate organic farming in Armenia and help farmers improve the quality of their products, thus enabling them to compete in local markets and secure a higher standard of living. These objectives are achieved by creating farmer groups and cooperatives, introducing new technologies, and organizing seminars and research projects.

Considering I knew almost nothing about organic farming or farming at all, for that matter, I wondered how I would be able to assist Green Lane. It turned out, my knowledge of English and enthusiasm for helping underrepresented communities was enough to make a change in this organization within a short period of time.

Aside from everyday assignments, my main project involved composing, editing and translating material for inclusion in an annual report in English, which was two years behind schedule due to lack of English-speaking staff. What is a 20-page report in English good for, you ask? Aside from documenting the organization's growth and progress, it helps establish credibility and an international idenity. Considering Green Lane works with a number of international organizations and is mainly funded by foreign sponsors, an interactive report in English would help communicate with current and potential stakeholders and spark interest in the organization. Granted full creative freedom in composing the report and making it visually pleasing, I enjoyed the process more than you may think. But I still wanted to get in the field and see farming communities for myself.



So I did! Well, kind of. On a sunny Wednesday, Mr. Vardkes, the head of a farmers cooperative in Lukashin, stopped by the office to drive me to his village and introduce me to the cooperative's operations. I spent the next 24 hours trying to make sense of contradictions and gradually letting go of expectations about this visit. To my initial surprise, Mr. Vardkes was not driving a soviet zhiguli, but a Mercedes. Yes, a farmer came to drive me to his community in a Mercedes! His daughter Lilit, a second year student at the Yerevan State Institute of Economy, was in the car as well. During the hour-long drive to the Armavir Marz, where Lukashin is located, Mr. Vardkes debriefed me on the village's unique history. It turns out Lukashin was founded in 1925 when an American orphanage in Dilijan sent over a hundred orphans following the genocide to settle there. Today, the village population is comprised of the descendants of these settlers, whose main source of income is local agriculture.

Judging from the car I was in, I was beginning to picture a mansion in an idyllic location with marble statues and fountains. Thankfully, we arrived in front of a modest Armenian home surrounded by nothing but dirt roads and the smell of cow dung. The location was beautiful and the scenery breathtaking. The remainder of the day was spent preparing lunch and dinner with the women of the family, chatting with the village girls over coffee, and watching a comedy show with grandpa.

I almost forgot, we managed to interrupt the unconditional local hospitality with a few hours of work. Mr. Vardkes walked me over to the cooperative offices where we brainstormed ideas for a project he wanted to launch with the help of the U.S. Embassy in Yerevan. More specifically, the embassy's Democracy Commission Small Grants program provides up to $24,000 to help fund democratic initiatives in different regions in Armenia. After a thorough discussion with member farmers, we settled on a program to promote and protect human and minority rights, more specifically, those of the prominent Yezdi population in Lukashin. While I would not be able to write the proposal and complete the application during my short month in Armenia, I enthusiastically offered to help from the States. I will be working on this assignment during the next couple of months.

I spent the night at the grandparents' house, buried under layers of comfy blankets and listening to birds chirping on the roof. The following morning, Lilit and I hopped on a marshrutka back to Yerevan and promised to stay in touch after I return back to the States. We have.

My impressions of Lukashin were reflective of my overall experience in Armenia - a combination of surprises and glaring contradictions, feelings of happiness and moments of sadness. I was as elated to be home, at the same time feeling constant nostalgia for the Armenia of my childhood that no longer existed. My initial surprise at the omnipresent Western luxuries casually juxtaposed with equal amounts of poverty and dispair was quickly countered by the realization that Armenia does not evolve in a vacuum. Instead, it is a product of long-standing traditions pulling it one way and foreign influences pulling it the other.

As evident from my short count of Lukashin, regions outside of Yerevan are not immune to globalization either. They continue to adapt foreign customs to their daily lives while maintaining the authenticity that has prevailed in the country for centuries.

Now if only there was a healthy balance between tradition and modernization, an opportunity for one to complement the other. In my opinion, Green Lane is helping achieve just that. It makes use of advances in agricultural science and technology to help Armenian farmers grow crops unique to their land, while establishing a platform for self-governance and sustainability.

The organization not only promotes democracy in remote regions of Armenia, but also within its office walls. Team members are valued for their presence and contributions to the organization and, therefore, work with great enthusiasm and drive. Green Lane and similar organizations are at the forefront of progress in Armenia, serving not only as leaders of change but also as prime examples of innovative thinking and democracy in the workplace. For this and other reasons, I am excited for the prospect of returning to Yerevan and continuing to work with Green Lane Agricultural NGO.

Armenia’s Environmental Issues Through the Eyes of an AVC Volunteer Sponsored by Birthright Armenia

Rebecca Kandilian
USA (Alumnus, 2010)

To celebrate and shed light on the state of the world’s biodiversity, the United Nations has declared 2010 as the International Year of Biodiversity. Furthermore, Conservation International has named Armenia and the Caucuses at large as one of the top 25 biodiversity hotspots in the world. Not a title to be proud of as it means that although it harbors a significant amount of biodiversity, 70 % of it has been destroyed. What is more, prior to this summer, I did not have a slight idea of this rather concerning reality about Armenia’s natural world. But, I went, I saw, I felt and feel compelled to enlighten.

As a biology student engrossed in my studies at the University of Southern California, I worked for many of its educational outreach programs. Fully devoted to bringing the local youngsters in touch with the beauty of nature while stressing the importance of its protection. A mere act of reciprocity for the sheer beauty, tranquility and the resources that mother nature provides. It is fair to say that I may have never thought about volunteering in Armenia if it were not for two organizations: Birthright Armenia and Armenian Volunteer Corps (AVC). Birthright Armenia is a non-profit organization with the mission to bring the Diasporan Youth to volunteer in Armenia. AVC, on the other hand, upon careful consideration of the volunteer’s educational and extracurricular experiences, places him/her at an appropriate site. While Birthright Armenia sparked the thought to volunteer, AVC acted as the catalyst to solidify and finalize my decision. (For more information on Birthright Armenia and AVC please visit www.BirthrightArmenia.org and www.ArmenianVolunteer.org respectively)

Thus, only a few days after my graduation, I accompanied the AVC director to my volunteer site in Yerevan: The Foundation for the Preservation of Wildlife and Cultural Assets (FPWC) also known as SunChild. FPWC is a non-governmental organization which, through many educational projects such including its eco-clubs in all regions of Armenia, aims to bring about a new generation of Armenians who will protect and serve as the stewards of Armenia’s natural world and biodiversity. Although I worked on many different projects, my primary focus became the green bus tour which entailed going to and spending a week in three different regions of Armenia (Tavush, Lori and Syunik). There, with the cooperation of the local municipality, we implemented many educational activities which included showing and discussing environmentally relevant films at local schools and kindergartens, organizing forums, and measuring the water quality of the local rivers with high school students.

As I write my impressions of each region, primarily in the light of their unique environmental issues, I will inevitably relive the sixteen-hour workdays on the bus, the sleepless nights, the heart wrenching realities, and the unforgettable touching moments as we go through Tavush, Lori and Syunik. Be prepared to learn about the good, the bad and the beautiful.


Tavush Region

The first stop on the FPWC’s green bus tour was the region of Tavush and specifically the small town of Ijevan. Ijevan’s breathtaking natural beauty had floored me and so had its people, specially the youngsters. Despite the fact that I was quite far from home, and traveling with a group of locals I had just met at my volunteer site, the children made me feel rather at home. Magnetized towards us and the bus, they quickly made themselves comfortable in my arms and hands. Eager to learn and listen to what we had to say and the films we were to show. Nevertheless, I soon had my first encounter with Armenia’s education system which pushed me deep into my thoughts. Part of our green bus program entailed showing environmentally relevant short cartoons to youngsters and discussing them. But, we soon learned the difficulty of doing so as the children were surprised and startled when asked to share their thoughts and opinions about the issues being raised in the films shown. Most tried to find a way to agree with whoever was leading the discussion. In parentheses, I do not in anyway blame these children for such behavior as I am certain they would not object to progressive education that emphasizes critical and independent thinking. I could see the potential in their eyes but at the same time how much it has been repressed. With our time up in Ijevan we headed out to Noyemberyan.

On our way there, it was evident that we had come to the right place. Trash everywhere. The one children’s park that we saw had more trash and plastic bags than kids and swings combined. As we went to the surrounding villages, and spoke with the local municipality, the littering problem was the main topic of conversation and concern. Some said a small fee gets the residents’ trash picked up and thrown away while others said the service is provided by the municipality with absolutely no fee. Yet, in both cases, most people insisted on taking their bucket of trash and dumping it into the local river. Some were saddened by this occurrence but most, perhaps having given up, consoled themselves by saying, with a rather wide grin, that the water ends up in a neighboring country anyway so let it be.

But, this is far from being a laughing matter as although it may end up in a neighboring country, it would inevitably have to go through Armenia first. On our last day, on the way to Debetavan, the last Armenian village hugging the Georgian border, I poked out my head out of the bus to see a fitly, brown and sand filled Debet River. What is more, as we sat down with the municipality and the locals of Debetavan, we learned that people cannot use the river water for irrigation because the crops would simply dry. Consequently, most have left the village leaving a few hundred folks behind most of whom work outside of the village to make a living. The disheartening conditions of the school and the kindergarten made me lose sleep for sometime to say the least. Just as difficult was to see a group of elderly gathered with buckets to get water from one source that the entire village shares.

Of course, I know life is not fair, I also know not everyone has the same opportunities in life and that such conditions and even worse exist in other parts of the world. I would be naïve to think otherwise. But, my heart still ached and still does to this day. Would having a clean, crisp water running through Debetavan, partly prevented by not dumping waste into the river, solve all of the problems of the region or the village itself? No, I am not dull enough to suppose that. But, it would at least allow them the opportunity to raise their own crops, perhaps ship and sell. On days such as this, the mission of FPWC and its green bus became even more vital as we, among other things, went to almost every village and town in the region and measured the water quality of the local river with a group of high schoolers stressing the importance of keeping them clean. Most were ashamed when they found the water quality in the worst condition possible. Perhaps shame is a good source of motivation to change.

Lori Region

The town of Allaverdi was our first stop in the Lori region and no sooner than my first night there did I learn a hard lesson about its main environmental issue; the open-pit copper and molybdenum mines. As I tossed and turned trying to sleep in the scorching heat and humidity, I realized that my nose was bleeding. Strange. Never have I had a spontaneous nose bleed in my short 22 years. I quickly ran to the bathroom while unintentionally waking up the landlady who took advantage of the opportunity to tell me a story. “For a high school field trip” she began, “they took us to one of the local copper mines and five minutes into our trip, our noses started to bleed.” She then grabbed my hand with exquisite gentleness and took me out to the balcony. “That” she said “is what we breathe,” pointing to the gases flowing out of the chimney of the copper mine across our apartment. “That copper mine, among other ones, is what makes this region’s air thirty times more toxic than it ought to be. That, is what made your nose bleed.” If it was difficult to sleep a while ago due to the heat, it just became impossible after hearing all of that.

Regardless, thanks to the utter cooperativeness of the municipality and the youngsters, after a couple of successful days in Allaverdi, we were on our way to the nearby town of Akhtala. Despite the nauseating smell of the chemicals produced by its copper mine, I was mesmerized by its Monastery. To think that people had the persistence and talent to build such intricate, and detailed moldings with their bare hands just amazed me. It is truly a perfect specimen of a cultural asset which reflects the character of our ancestors. I do not think words can ever do justice to all that it is. But, what I saw and learned next was sickening.

As we introduced ourself as representatives of the Foundation for the Preservation of Wildlife and Cultural Assets (FPWC), the eyes of the municipality staff and the residents of Akhtala lit up and they began to tell. Lori region is rich in copper-molybdenum deposits which has opened the doors for people to use it to produce copper. Certainly, it would only make sense to make use of natural resources to make something useful for people to use. But, the problem lies in the fact that the waste is not disposed of properly. Specifically, in between the monastery and the copper mine, runs the Akhtala River where part of the waste is dumped into while the rest is left out in the open, instead of being fenced by cement, diffusing all through the town and making its way into the lungs of the locals. I was truly heartbroken when I learned that Akhtala’s Monastery did not qualify as one of UNESCO’s world heritage sites due to the radioactive waste produced by the open-pit copper mine across from it. What a shame.

Unfortunately, the effects of polluting the Akhtala River goes far beyond the monastery sitting a few miles across from it. Specifically, the point where the Debed River and the Akhtala River merge together is a revelatory one. This junction clearly shows clear crisp Debed merging with yellow Akhtala river contaminated by the copper mine, and two together flowing towards the Tavush region. Seeing this, right away, reminded me of our visit to Debedavan—a village hugging the Debed River in the region of Tavush. The residents there had complained that their trees were drying and had pointed to the Lori region as the primary source of the problem in addition to the trash dumped by their own residents. They were right. Those folks, all 700 inhabitants of the village, now share the one source of clean water available for the entire village thanks to the carelessness of another region’s copper mines. When mother nature give us a gift, do we not have the moral responsibility to not use that gift to harm our natural world? It all became even more real when we went to the local kindergarten to do our presentation. Besides the suffocating smell of chemicals present in the classroom, the dark under eye circles on the pale faces of the children explained it all. All 30 of them had them. “It is from the polluted water, and air,” explained the staff.

After a melancholic day in Akhtala, we headed out to Teghut and along the way were confronted with massive amount of logs. Deforestation at its best. Teghut is also now a candidate for a copper mine and its residents were split in their opinion. Some supported it saying that it will open jobs as 3,000 jobs had been promised. Others realized that the adverse health consequences far outweighed the job opportunities. I am quite certain that all of the money in the world would not convince me to see any kid in the conditions of the kids of Akhtala.

Syunik Region

After a rather scenic, breezy, and an overcast 10-hour ride through the hills of Syunik, the very southern tip of Armenia, we entered Kapan. Hardly had our bus rounded the corner of the road leading to the municipality building than we saw a group of youngsters gathered and taking part in what looked like a summer day camp. With a chalk in hand, they were diligently writing the name of the local gold mining company all over the streets: the sponsors of the day camp. Mining companies reaching out to the community, a reoccurring theme in the region of Syunik as we learned when we ventured out to Kajaran. Not even for a second did any of the community outreach programs make me overlook their company’s adverse effects on the environment.

Never one to take much notice of car brands, I was startled by the abundance of new cars and SUVs I saw in Kajaran. It also had the most upgraded municipality building I had seen thus far. Not to mention the newly built science laboratories of the local high school that were in the process of implementing environmental studies courses. All compliments of the copper-molybdenum mine that I quickly eyed while we sat with the mayor and talked about our green bus tour. I soon learned that the majority of the town’s residents worked for the mine and were paid quite well by any and all standards hence the very modern cars. But, despite the rather positive picture painted by the mayor, I could not help but ask “where is the waste going?” Perhaps knowing what I would hear next. The Voghji River. Not surprisingly, this river which runs through Kajaran now leads Armenia as the most polluted river along with Debet.

The general consensus of the citizens and the municipality was the following: they’re there, have always been there, and are at least providing us the financial support to counteract their pollution. Not even slightly convinced. Most certainly not content.

Also not content are the residents of the village of Lernadzor. Located in-between Kajaran and Kapan, Lernadzor has a rather concerning environmental issue. Syunik, specifically the hills around Lernadzor, have for a long time been suspected to be a rich source of radioactive ore such as uranium. Recently in 2008, The Uranium Project was launched by the Armenian-Russian Mining Company whose shares are divided equally between the Armenian Government represented by the Ministry of Energy and Natural Resources and a Russian state-owned nuclear energy company. The Uranium Project entails surveying the hills of Lernadzor and upon finding sufficient amount of uranium, mining it sometime in 2010. Although no actual drilling has been done to this point, there was a tangible fear and horror within the residents of Lernadzor who had the very reasonable concern that exploration work, which will involve some sort of drilling into the hills, will contaminate their water subjecting their health and the health of their children to a tremendous risk. Though the project officials have been reassuring that such catastrophe will not happen, the residents have voiced their decision to block the much important road linking Iran to Armenia should the project proceed and drilling take place.

Before I end, I would like to take a moment and talk about our last day in Kajaran where a group of high schoolers and I did a water quality survey. Based on biotic (I.e. type of living organisms), abiotic factors (e.g. temperature, flow rate, pH, turbidity) and other simple calculations, together, we classified a local river’s level of cleanliness. Unlike the past surveys I had done, we were taken to the very source of a river where no opportunity exists for people to contaminate it. It was the first time that I saw what our rivers ought to look like. Flowing with much energy, cold, and clear in contrast to the dirty, sandy, yellow and lifeless warm river waters that I had seen and been in. The substantial contrast between the two pushed me into a moment of introspection. How many people would purposely make their home dirty or allow others to do so? I do not know of too many. Armenia is the only home we have ever known.

This blogpost first appeared as an article in the Friday, October 15, 2010 issue of the Asbarez.

I Love Armenia

Alis Nini
Greece

‘I love Armenia and I love America and I belong to both, but I am only this: an inhabitant of the earth, and so are you, whoever you are. I tried to forget Armenia but I couldn't do it.’ – William Saroyan-

Being a young diasporan who visits Armenia for the very first time can be an overwhelming experience. When I first wandered in the streets of Yerevan I was looking for something familiar to find myself in.

My first thought, when I landed in Yerevan, was the fear of not finding what I have been looking for all these years. Thankfully, national consciousness revealed itself to me soon. It wasn’t revealed in something specific but it was rather a series of moments like during a conversation with a local Armenian or another diasporan Armenian, the sight of a church or a mountain proudly surrounding the Armenian land. It must have been a moment when an unexpected emotion conquered me and forced me to discover Armenia.

Discovering the glorious simplicity of the churches,
The rugged sceneries, yet breathtaking nature,
The valuable remains of a lost kingdom,
The determined people, yet always welcoming,
The presence of art in every corner of Yerevan,
The longing of taking a glimpse of Mount Ararat in a clear sky, were all signs which showed me I started connecting with homeland. My stay was for six weeks and I went through three phases. In the beginning everything was like a puzzle which turned into an ongoing search for the pieces to be put together. I am now holding the perfect picture and I am sure each volunteer hold their own.

After six weeks of working, living, dealing with pleasant and unpleasant situations, adapting, travelling in Armenia, searching and discovering I realised that there was a mighty generation which established a kingdom,
A generation of intellectuals gifted with wisdom which gave us and the world outstanding inheritance,
There was a generation consisted by heroes and survivors,
There was a brave and courageous generation which preserved our identity and traditions through immigration,
And we are the generation which is called to acknowledge our past, embrace our developing nation, reconnect with the homeland and make sure it will continue to grow.

Above all I realised that being a diasporan Armenian comes with a price. It comes with a doubtful feeling of not entirely belonging somewhere and an anguished effort of searching for homeland.

On the other hand, being a diasporan Armenian gives me an advantage. This doubtful feeling of ‘not entirely belonging somewhere’ makes me an ‘inhabitant of the earth’. It gives me the freedom to make an endless journey that will keep me developing, having at the same time my Armenian roots as an integral part of my identity.

Now When I Think of Armenia…I think about the next pages of our history

Noushig Hovhannesian
USA

I had been looking forward to the day when I would have the opportunity to visit Armenia for the first time. For so long, I wanted to understand the connection I have had to my homeland. Before, when I would think about Armenia, I would think about the land where the stories of our history were created and only understood it through my interpretations of images and texts.

This summer, I had the incredible privilege of living, working, and experiencing life in Armenia.

Through the Birthright Armenia program, not only was I able to see Armenia and experience the beauty of our landscape and our culture, but I was able to live life as a local rather than visit as a tourist. For two months, I served with the Armenian Volunteer Corps in the city of Gyumri.

The opportunity to be a Birthright Armenia volunteer was introduced to me earlier this year. As I was considering my next step after graduation, I was unsure about the decision I had to make. I found myself discouraged in a poor job market with sparse fulfilling employment opportunities. I had been working for a Real Estate company for four years and had developed notable job security in an unstable economy, yet I was determined to find greater and more fulfilling challenges. I was too comfortable and knew that I was capable of more and for that reason, more must be expected from me. I needed to find a place where I would be able to help others without working to gain anything, see and understand life from others’ perspectives, and, for a little bit, forget about my personal priorities.

After a lot of thought and consideration, I decided to quit my job and pursue the opportunity to volunteer in Armenia.

Birthright placed me with a homestay family in Gyumri with whom I have developed a close relationship and what I hope to be a lifelong connection. Now when I think of Armenia, I think about my extended family that lives in Gyumri. I have a mother who has been through an earthquake and has lived through devastation, who has seen the worst but only knows how to offer the most to others. I have three sisters, three nephews, and one niece who I think about often. I have mothers, brothers, and sisters-in-law. I have neighbors and their children, grandchildren, nieces, and nephews.

There are moments I have had with my family in Gyumri that I can never forget and that have created my new knowledge of Armenia as I know it today. Now when I think of Armenia, I think about the many long, late hour talks I had with my host mother with whom I lived alone, since all three of her daughters were married and living with their in-laws. I think about Nareg, my favorite five year-old nephew, whom I love with special admiration. His singing and humming of Armenian songs around the house still ring in my ear and put a smile on my face. When playing alone in the middle of the living room, he would recite Armenian poems that he had learned in preschool. And when I would incorrectly use an expression or improperly pronounce a word in the Eastern Armenian accent, he would correct me rather than expect me to know better than him as an adult.

Now when I think about Armenia, I think about the unique and joyous traditions of our Armenian culture. I remember going to my upstairs neighbor’s apartment on Vartavar late Sunday afternoon with my small pitcher of water. In hopes to surprise her, I knock on the door and go running around the corner to hide and soak her with my pitcher when she found me. That was when my friend Zach, a fellow volunteer who had been staying with my neighbor, and her son chased me through the hallway with a tub of water that they managed to pour over my head as I was standing there helpless in the hallway, still holding onto my small pitcher. They had been playing, indoors, since early that morning. That was just the beginning of the fun we had that day. I remember my host nephew’s adamahadig, celebrated just as we do in the Middle Eastern Armenian tradition. After five minutes of the young child being indecisive about the item he should grab, the doctor’s item was handed to him, and that’s when they determined that Haigo was indeed going to be a doctor.

I had the privilege of working at Fritsiov Nansen Orphanage, an internship in which I was placed by the Armenian Volunteer Corps. I worked with a group of teens, ages fourteen through nineteen. All of them have left a significant impact on my life. Now when I think of Armenia, I think of the beautiful faces of these Armenian boys and girls; although they are disadvantaged and deprived they are able to speak of the future. Whether that future holds marriage and creating families of their own, job opportunities, or a new city to call home, they were able to see past the affliction in which they lived. My perspective says affliction, but perhaps in theirs, they are content. I witnessed the care and concern they all have towards each other as siblings. It is distressing to say, however, that some had no hope, brushing off my question of what they want to make out of their lives, what they most like to learn, or what they most enjoy doing. It is difficult to handle a response that tells you that there is no desire or want to become anything and no interest to learn from anyone. I did not want to go through a day without seeing the children, even if it was for only half an hour on certain days. And then there was Khoren. Khoren is an undeniable inspiration to all who know him. His love of the Armenian culture was evident, his intelligence was heartwarming, and his tremendous talent was uplifting. His singing voice could move you to tears. Khoren is physically challenged and the only child in the orphanage who had such harsh physical impairments. The bones throughout his body and his face were not properly developed. He would often be interviewed by a local television station and the interviews would be televised for local viewers; unfortunately, I had never had the opportunity to see any of the interviews. I was told that when he was once asked what he wanted to do in his life, his response was to be a doctor so that he may be able to cure others’ ailments so that they may live better lives.

As a Birthright Armenia participant, my fellow Diasporan Armenian volunteers and I had the opportunity to participate in weekly forums and havaks where we were able to meet with political figures, war heroes and veterans, local youth and historians, and talented artists. Now when I think of Armenia, I think of one of the most uplifting and emotional moments I experienced when one of our war heroes stood during our forum and with marked emotion told us in Armenian, “This is your Armenia just as well as it is my Armenia. This is your home. We are left with only a small portion of our great land, but remember that it is ours. It is Armenian land. We must always fight to make sure we hold on to what we have left so that there will always be an Armenia.”
That first night I arrived home from Armenia and sat in my living room, I felt a rush through me as if I had left a part of me behind in Armenia. My connection is now not only emotional but has become physical, fixed to the grounds on which I had the privilege of walking. Hardships and setbacks were evident. However, progress and hope is strong. Armenia is moving forward. Although few job opportunities are available, education is a priority. My host mother, who was widowed and who could barely afford her monthly expenses, put her daughter through college, knowing that the chance of her daughter being employed after graduation was slim to none. This says a lot about a country and a people, as Sevan Kabakian, the director and our leader in Birthright, kindly brought to my attention.

The next pages of our history have already begun. We are a free, independent nation and a newer, stronger, and greater Armenia is being created with the same determination as those of our legendary heroes, through those who believe in prolonging our history and in lifting it to a new level of glory.

Beyond the Stereotypes

Nora Injeyan
USA

My work experience in Armenia, in Gyumri, was molded and influenced the greatest by my boss, an elderly woman named Julietta Eganyan. She has come to represent, to me, everything Gyumri is, and everything it has the potential of becoming.

On my first day in Gyumri, a few other new volunteers and myself went to our jobs and got acquainted with our site. Upon my arrival, Julietta had Shant baghbagag waiting for me and soon enough, the awkward, first-meeting conversation ensued.

“Vor deghatsi es?”
“Ameriga”
“Eenchoo Gyumri es yegel?”

I didn’t provide her with any substantial answer as I honestly wasn’t quite sure why at that point. After a few minutes of uncomfortable chit-chat, she finally said, “Ari mi pajag gini khmenk” and my complicated love/hate relationship with her, with Gyumri, began.

Julietta lost both her son and daughter in the devastating earthquake in 1988, she in fact has a personal survivor story that is so unbelievable you would think it was written by Hollywood screenwriters. However, I am not going to delve into the specifics of her story, only to reiterate that it is safe to say, this woman lost everything to the earthquake. But as the days passed, our relationship slowly progressed and she began trusting and depending on me more and more. I think our relationship reached a level that few of the other AVC volunteers got at their job site. In fact, on my last day in Gyumri, she took me to visit her children’s graves. As we approached the grave, it became obvious that 22 years had not healed her wounds, 22 years had not eased the pain of losing her children any more. Julietta proved that the people of Gyumri are still living in the aftermath of the earthquake. Although the world, even the Armenian diaspora seems to have moved on, the Gyumretsis are still living, day to day with the reality of the earthquake in their minds and this reality has created an amazing set of contradictions that I would have been completely oblivious to had I not worked so closely with this woman. Despite being devastated by an earthquake, a subsequent lack of aid and being forgotten by the world soon thereafter, there is a desire and an attempt here to rebuild or create an even greater community. Julietta, having nothing, is still willing to give everything to her NGO “Margartatsaghik.”

This attitude is what lives underneath the top layer of cynicism most people are accustomed to on their trips to Armenia. This is not to say there is not a deep rooted anger and disappointment among the people, however, anyone who dismisses this as the primary motivator among the people has not made the attempt to understand that anger. I refuse to accept the common perception that the Armenian people are stuck in this bubble.

In my short time working in an NGO dedicated to helping those affected by the earthquake, it became obvious that these effects are still being felt every day. However, there is a strong desire for change permeating throughout Gyumri. People are becoming fed up with their living conditions and have decided to create change by getting educated, nurturing discussions aimed at solutions, and opening up institutions of change such as NGOs like Julietta did. This is where the inherent contradictions lie, contradictions people tend to mistake as simple pessimism and hopelessness. Yes, Gyumri is filled with people who are backwards, angry and hopeless, but the times are changing indeed and trends of modernity, optimism and change are spreading. It is now up to the Gyumretsis to foster that change and the diasporan to aid and support them by coming to Armenia, living there, working there, talking to the people and simply trying to understand life in Armenia, in Gyumri, beyond the stereotype, beyond the negativity.

A Volunteer's First Impressions

Haig Balian
Canada

I’m lying on my single bed in my new room in Gyumri, and my host family is down on the main floor, watching an Armenian soap opera. It’s been two nights since I arrived in Armenia, and I think I may have already beaten my jet lag. Yesterday, I wasn’t very hopeful that I would.

I had the day mostly to myself, and spent the morning wandering the getron – the downtown area – running errands and buying a few necessities. Before I arrived, I’d thought that being in Armenia would be like being dropped into a totally foreign country, but magically having the ability to communicate with the people there.

That’s sort of exactly what it was like.

At the phone shop, I figured out the rates for data plans. At the electronics store, I bought a converter for North American plugs. At a tiny bakers, I ordered two lahmajoon – commonly described as Armenian pizzas – and they were made to order. I’ve had fresh lahmajoon before, but never straight from the oven. They were pretty incredible. I know I could have figured all this out without knowledge of the language. I’ve gotten used to gesturing with my arms, as well as approximating pronunciations in my guide books. But it’s never been this easy.

Not that I’m even close to fluent. I stayed with a family my first two nights in Yerevan. They were, I think, pleasantly surprised by the amount of Armenian I was able to speak, but soon my limitations came to the surface.They asked what I did in Canada; I couldn’t really answer (of course, I have the same problem when speaking with English speakers). They tried talking about politics. Food. Culture. The best I could do was try to understand concepts. The fact is, I stopped going to Armenian school in the fifth grade, so I read and speak at less than a fifth grade level now. That being said, I’m getting by.

In the early afternoon, I made my way back to my host family, but my head down on my pillow, and slept for three hours. I knew it was a terrible idea, and I did pay for it that night when I woke up at four and went back to sleep at 5:30. I’d made plans to meet with another new volunteer later that evening. Meghrig is a recent history graduate from a university in Haleb (Aleppo?), Syria, a city with a large Armenian population. We made plans on the phone. It was the first time I’d spoken Armenian to anyone other than a member of my family on the phone for as long as I can remember.

Yerevan’s main square – which is actually more of an oval – is like nothing I’ve seen. It’s surrounded by five low-rise stone buildings, and at the centre is a large fountain. On summer evenings, the buildings are illuminated and there’s a choreographed water show on the fountain, set to the music of Aznavour, Khatchatourian, U2, Piaf, and Williams, as well as others.

Much more to write, but it’ll have to wait until at least tomorrow. And I’ll have more pictures, too.

A few random observations:

* Armenians – Yerevanites, anyway – are incredibly put together. The women especially seem to spend an incredible amount of time getting ready for the day. The men, too, make an effort to look nice. Yesterday, I wore shorts and a t-shirt, and was awarded with stares; today I wore pants.
* When someone invites you to sit down to eat hatz – bread – you’ll be in your chair for at least half an hour. You’re in for a lot more than just bread.
* Mt. Ararat is completely visible from Yerevan. I went running the morning after I first arrived, turned a corner, and was completely surprised by this.

This post first appeared on Haig's own blog, www.haigbalian.com