See the Ararat and Stay

Diego Benning Wang,
New York, NY, United States

"I have cultivated in myself a sixth sense, by the name of 'Ararat': it is the sense of belonging to the sacred mountain. Today, wherever my fate would take me, this sense will be dwelling in me and remaining with me for the eternity." - Osip Mandelstam

“Inchu es yekel Hayastan ashkhatanki? Aystegh pogh ch’ka!”

 

This is by far the most frustrating question I have ever been asked by people in Armenia.

The statement per se, however, is evidently flawed.  The convertible racing through the glittering streets of downtown Yerevan, the glamorously dressed women waltzing through the main pedestrian streets with equally dazzling lapdogs in their hands, the young people in upscale cafes dexterously flipping their fingers over the glossy touchscreens of their gadgets, and the magnificent palace-resembling condominiums lining up the highways leading to Ashtarak all defy the notion that Armenia is a country where the economic prospect is nowhere beyond gloomy. More importantly, illusions of the extravagant lifestyle of Armenia’s oligarchy that by all means contradicted the country’s fiscal statistics led to one of the most equivocal misperceptions I had of the country during my first visit.

 

Another less equivocal but more heart-aching perception I had of Armenian society was the ethnocentric intolerance, which I hereby prefer not elaborating on.

 

Despite the obvious incorrectness in all the above-stated perceptions, their corresponding phenomena do exist in today’s Armenia, and sometimes even prevail at the surface level. My first sojourn in the country, which lasted three months and was by and large confined to Yerevan, was far from enough for me to gain a comprehensive and unbiased insight into this newly independent country that is so strikingly full of contrasts—extreme affluence of the upper class vs. the sheer poverty of the rural poor, wholesale embrace of the culture of globalization by the young generation vs. staunch nationalism that often tramples upon the national esteem of neighboring peoples, Western-oriented political aspirations vs. profound nostalgia of a recent Soviet past, etc.

It would be extremely difficult to find a country where people are more eager to showcase their culture to the rest of the world than in Armenia. The true appreciation of the greatness of this nation, nonetheless, rests not simply in sightseeing or museum visits, because no monuments could recount the bittersweet stories of such a trouble-afflicted nation that has a glorious past and is struggling to regain its foothold on its ancient homeland in spite of the unimaginable traumas and upheavals of its recent past. The backbone of this nation is and has always been borne by its people whose spirit affects outsiders like me only through the stories they tell, both by words and through actions.

 

Unlike the vast majority of transient visitors who set foot on this ancient land for an array of purposes, I deeply feel attached to this country. And my attachment to Armenia all started with an arduous desire to behold the graciously snow-capped Ararat and my fellow Christians living underneath.  Due to the complexity of my backgrounds that most people in this long-isolated and ethnically homogenous society would find it difficult to comprehend, normal communications with locals were virtually implausible during my first visit of the country. Loneliness and alienation dominated my feelings alongside a never-fading fascination with the country’s culture.

Fortunately, thanks to the joint efforts of AVC and Birthright Armenia, I found a platform to truly integrate into this country that I now consider my second home. An intense working schedule that deprived me of at least three ours of sleep daily, challenging Armenian classes, daily rides on crowded and suffocating minivans, and regular visits to poverty-stricken towns and villages paradoxically kept me enthusiastic about my every second in Armenia.  My voluntary renunciation of the material wellbeing I had always taken for granted in America turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

During the two months of my second visit of Armenia, I met a myriad of brilliant people, some of which are friends worth cherishing for a lifetime. My homestay experience is particularly worth sharing:

My host family is a household of two—a widowed woman in her late 50s and her 18-year-old son (whose names will not be disclosed). The husband deceased because of an undetected brain tumor when the child was only 10. In order to avoid her son’s conscription into military service, the mother obtained a certificate of disability through her personal connections and thereby lost her job as a teacher of Russian language at a local public school. Unemployable because of the burdensome certificate, the family subsists largely on the mother’s meager subsidies that amounts to roughly 60 US dollars per month, help from her grown-up daughter who lives only two blocks away, and by hosting AVC and Birthright volunteers. The son is studying to be a masseur at a local vocational college on a partial scholarship (that compensates one-third of his tuitions) thanks to his skills in boxing and athletics.  Like many families on Baghramyan Street, the family is bilingual in Russian and Armenian. The mother, who attended a Russian school and finished college through a predominantly Russian-language curriculum, has a more proficient command in Russian than her native Armenian. Despite the economic hardships the family has been doomed into ever since the collapse of the Soviet Union, the mother still considers herself a true member of Yerevan’s Soviet-educated and remarkably erudite elite. The vintage but grandiose furnishing of her apartment still bears testimony to a materially abundant life during Soviet times. Moreover, unlike most of her former neighbors who have left Armenia for good, owing to her unrelenting love for her country, she has not only remained in Armenia, but also made dedicated efforts in promoting Armenia’s culture by hosting volunteers. I was even amazed at myself for being able to sit at a kitchen table talking for several hours every single day with a woman almost ten years older than my parents.

 

And such is the story of one morally exemplary Armenian. It is this kind of inspiring story, which you can expect to encounter on a frequent basis once you immerse yourself into this country that not only motivates you to make your own contributions to this country but also sheds light upon a future of a remarkable nation that is destined to withstand all future challenges to its sovereignty.

I have no Armenian origins whatsoever.  But I would wholeheartedly encourage you to volunteer in Armenia with AVC. No matter whether or not your roots can be traced upon this land of antiquity, the experience you will have here will definitely be life-changing.

Expecting the Unexpected

Nina Talverdian
USA, 2013

I am part of a generation that has tough stereotypes to beat with the many technological distractions it seems we always busy ourselves with. And it is true that at home, we have life's complications to settle along with staying on top of the hot new buzz circling the internet. However, having traveled to Armenia and volunteered with the help of the Armenian Volunteer Corps (AVC) for about 6 months, I learned that the lessons of life lie not behind the computer screen but in the interactions with people face-to-face in a world very different from ours.

Having never traveled to Armenia before, I felt joining a volunteer program was not only a good way to see the country but the best way to learn about its culture and people. I stepped in without any expectations and left with such pride. What lay ahead was a blessing because it was unexpected and enlightening yet emotional and challenging.

I was fortunate to have volunteered in and out of Yerevan in a number of different places. Almost everyone I had the opportunity to work with was pleasant, hard working and respectfully curious. I learned as much from them as they did from me. From the adults who had families to the kids trying to find their way in the world, they offered me an inside look into their lives that I have yet, even after 6 months, to fully grasp. And what made it all the more sweet was I was extending a hand to help which they appreciatively took. Even if I made a fractional difference at placements that stretched from assisting college classes to training former street dogs, the help was graciously accepted. This is not to say this experience came without its trials. Working behind the scenes shed light on their challenges with money and work and everything else in between. I experienced starkly different situations like students comfortably going to university while other families, not too far from the city, lacked the basic necessities to sustain themselves. However, even with all that considered, the positive conditions instilled a sense of hope for the progress in this young country and the negative a sense of how much work lies ahead for her.  

Although 6 months may seem like a lot of time, I left feeling my hand needed to be extended even further for even longer. However, I can safely say I had a very well rounded experience with the guidance of AVC. They offer a chance to immerse into this politically passionate yet calmly warm pool of people who will humble you at almost every turn. Armenia's conditions, societal values and cultural norms prove either to be blessings for some or hurdles for others. In my opinion, AVC gives you the chance to decide for yourself while you are ultimately in control of your own experience.

A Summer in Armenia

Griselda Ceballos
United States, 2013












 

“Im anoone  Griselda e: Hay chem: Mexikoohi em, bayts amoosins hay e”:  As soon as I hesitantly whisper these words the reaction is priceless, an instant connection. I can read and write in Armenian, but I understand and speak very little. The idea of spending a summer in Armenia was something I had been contemplating, yet having it materialize is something completely different. It was a tough decision, as my better half would not be joining me, but I believe the cause is unquestionably worth the sacrifice. My dream is to one day be able to communicate with my husband’s grandparents and share our stories. Without a doubt, an adventure of a lifetime and by far my craziest!

I arrived in Yerevan June 22, 2013 and absolutely love it! This experience so far has been filled with many unforgettable moments as well as a few challenges. I am currently volunteering with AVC at FAR's children support center full-time. I am teaching the older children English and Spanish, and the little ones the Armenian alphabet. The staff is such a great pleasure to work with and the children are equally amazing. So far, I have been meeting many wonderful people and visiting beautiful places along the way. My host family welcomed me into their home with open arms, and from the very first moment treated me like a daughter. If I would have to describe this trip in two words they would be: unforgettable and inspiring. I am so blessed and grateful for the opportunity to not only learn the language, but to also get a comprehensive picture of Armenia itself. If given the choice again, would I choose to do it?  “Yes! In a heartbeat.”

 This experience has taught me so many things, but the one thing that resonates the most is a quote on the wall of one of the AVC offices, “Be the change you want to see in the world” Gandi.

« Osez, ça en vaut la peine! »

Anait Bagramyan, Canada, 2012

C’est en tant que future psychologue en quête de soi que j’ai embarqué dans l’avion pour l’Arménie. Ma valise était remplie d’ambitions, d’anticipations, d’attentes mais également de peur et d’incertitudes.  Mes études était devenues trop théoriques et travailler au premier front me semblait une nécessité pour ne pas oublier pourquoi j’ai choisi cette vocation.

 

Le travail

Ma première destination fut une école spécialisée pour enfants en difficulté. Malgré le peu de temps que j’y ai passé, je me suis attachée aux enfants et eux à moi. Une fois la barrière culturelle brisée, l’expérience devint très instructive. J’ai constaté qu’une école reflète l’image de la société dans laquelle elle s’insère, une société aux problématiques variées, en l’occurrence. M’est apparu alors le rôle important d’une équipe administrative dans le système d’éducation, outre la compétence des professionnels et du financement.

J’ai également été envoyée aux ateliers du langage des signes à la fondation franco-arménienne. Entrer dans le monde des sourds était pour moi comme de découvrir l’Atlantide. Ma connaissance de 4 langues et ma formation universitaire ne m’étaient d’aucune utilité. Pour comprendre ces personnes, il faut écouter avec vos yeux et votre cœur. Leur isolement, voire leur invisibilité parmi la population, mènent à l’ignorance, qui donne naissance à la méfiance, aux préjugés et à l’injustice. Pourtant, les seuls réels problèmes de communication dont j’ai été témoin ont eu lieu entre des personnes dont l’ouïe est intacte. Ce que j’ai appris pendant mon bref passage est sans aucun doute précieux.

Ma dernière destination était une clinique privée, un centre sophistiqué avec des ressources financières, une vision avant-gardiste et des contacts. La discussion des sujets encore très tabous dans le pays y est soulevée et des projets de toute envergure y sont montés.  L’orphelinat d’enfants avec des déficiences sévères est un endroit en Arménie que je n’aurais pas connu dans d’autres circonstances. En somme, les trois établissements que j’ai fréquentés avaient des valeurs, des moyens financiers et des clientèles variées. Ces expériences ont été très différentes les unes des autres, mais chacune très enrichissante tant sur le plan professionnel que personnel.    

L’expérience

Le voyage fut rempli d’émotions, c’est le moins qu’on puisse dire.  L’AVC était présent pour m’orienter sur le bon chemin, m’encadrer par moment ou m’ouvrir aux possibilités. Il n’y a pas meilleur moyen de découvrir un pays que d’y vivre et d’y travailler. L’Arménie est une magnifique possibilité à laquelle les gens ont cru et pour laquelle les gens se sont battus, malgré les guerres, l’instabilité, le tremblement de terre et la crise économique. Ce voyage m’a permis de comprendre et d’y croire.

 

Je ne vous cacherai pas, beaucoup de choses me fâchent en Arménie, mais ce n’est pas parce que je vis et pense comme une canadienne.  C’est  parce que j’aime ce pays du fond du cœur et je ne lui souhaite rien de moins que le meilleur.

 

Le volontariat en Arménie, c’est plus qu’un travail à l’étranger. C’est une expérience de vie qui va forger votre caractère, c’est une aventure folle dans laquelle vous embarquez avec des volontaires comme vous. Les liens d’amitié se tissent, les découvertes se fondent, les endroits et moments marquent à jamais notre mémoire.  Les fous rires et même les larmes sont au rendez-vous.

 

Mon expérience en Arménie m’a sans aucun doute appris beaucoup plus que ce que j’en anticipais: sur mon métier, sur mon pays, sur l’amitié et la vie.   

Osez, ça en vaut la peine!

Sirov

Votre Alumni de Québec, Canada